When Good Street Food Goes Bad

A close call with cannibalism

When I arrived in Fort Portal, Uganda, back in 1998, Jackson’s samosas ruled supreme over the street food scene. He peddled two flavors from the three-wheeled cart he pushed around the town’s potholed streets: potato curry and beef and peas.

I was working on a chimpanzee project not far from Fort Portal and always bought a samosa or three from Jackson wh…